by Wendy
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For all my posts on Spain, I still haven’t written about one of the stories Jack and I tell the most. It takes place in an area north of Madrid, where Jack had a quick business appointment. I’m convinced that whether you spend 18 days or 18 hours in a Spanish city, you will see or do something interesting. Especially if you stay flexible and change plans as opportunity presents itself.
Enjoying the view from our hotel balcony… the day after the festival
As we drive into the city of Valladolid, we immediately notice evidence of a major celebration underway. We think it is a Saint’s Feast Day – we never did find out exactly. There are multiple tents and vendors. It looks like the entire population is outside, enjoying the blue skies, sun, food, drinks and music. We slowly steer up and down narrow streets searching for our hotel, dodging revelers along the way. It finally dawns on us that the hotel is directly facing what appears to be the town square: party central.
We can’t figure out where to park. The hotel supposedly has a parking garage but nothing makes sense. Jack waits in the car while I run into the lobby to ask, squeezing past parents carrying kids on shoulders and people with drinks. With my very limited Spanish and the friendly concierge’s limited English, I think he’s saying the garage is right around the corner. I return to the car and eventually realize I’ve failed my reconnaissance mission as we spend a few more minutes trying to identify this mysterious garage. We end up finding a place to park on the street a few blocks away.
The thing is, it’s getting late and we’re due at a winery outside the city in La Seca, at 6pm. So we hustle to check in at the hotel and freshen up before heading back to the car. The El Coloquio de los Perros Hotel is cool and one of the least expensive on our trip. The hotel’s name is also the title of a short story by Cervantes, who at one point lived in Valladolid. The room is modern, with an Ikea-inspired design. The safe doesn’t seem to work, so we decide to lock up the ipads in the car. It’s time to get going! Oh, but wait…there is a balcony that opens up directly to the square! We look out for a moment at the lively crowd and know exactly what our plans will be after the business meeting. In one sense we regret having to leave the scene – we love a good Spanish festival – but the winery visit has been scheduled for weeks and should be fun as well.
And it is. In fact, the business meeting ends up being one of our favorite experiences of the trip. The opportunity to tour a distinguished Spanish Bodega, talk at length with the director and winemaker, and sample some of my favorite kinds of wine (Verdejo) is a near-perfect way to spend an evening. Jack and I have brought a bottle of bourbon as a thank you gift, and I explain that I was raised in Kentucky, the home of bourbon. The director is delighted, and observes that Kentucky makes him think of woods, horses and people making moonshine. There is obviously much more to the state, but I thought that was a rather decent ballpark description!
As dusk falls the director asks about our dinner plans. We explain that we are staying in Valladolid and will find a spot near the hotel.
Well you could, he says, but everything will be very crowded because of the festival. Instead, he continued, you should come with me to dine at my “home away from home.”
Jack and I know there is clearly only one choice. And we have one of the most amazing dinners of the trip with our new friend, at his favorite restaurant. We are happy to let him choose the dishes and are treated to an array of plates – paper thin beef, crispy seafood fritters, creamy spinach/cheese soup, a juicy Iberico pork with marmalade, fresh and flavorful tuna, and deserts and coffee. And wine, of course. We talk about wine, travel, our families, the great cities of Spain and the U.S. We don’t let the slight language barrier interfere – and the truth is, it really never does when conversation is between people who share a sense of humor, kindness and determination to find common interests. The restaurant is quiet – people are attending the festival! But Jack and I don’t care at all about missing the action in town. This is better.
It’s getting pretty late when we drive the short way back to Valladolid. The celebration is winding down, but there are still pockets of carousers out and about – including quite a few on the street where the parking garage is allegedly located. We still can’t find it! This time Jack goes inside the hotel to ask for directions while I wait in the car. After a few minutes, I notice Jack returning to the car with the concierge. Jack gets in the driver’s seat while the concierge gives me a wave, grinning, and then walks in front of the car to lead us down the narrow street directly behind the hotel. As Jack drives slowly behind him, we wonder if the partiers are going to move out of the way. As the car approaches, they gradually make room at the last minute, staring at the crazy couple who missed the party. The concierge is pointing to a button activating a door to a tiny elevator for vehicles that takes us down to the underground parking garage. We have a Mini Cooper and there is barely enough room for the car. I’m worried the concierge is annoyed but Jack assures me he found it very funny! We thank him profusely, drop off our stuff, and make a beeline to the bar around the corner to have a drink with the last of the festival goers before bed.
This story reminds me why the so-called “fear of missing out” is a myth – not anything to stress out about. Build an itinerary, but leave room for improvising. Research, plan your must-sees, get inspired by other travelers – but don’t worry about what everyone else is doing. Live your own unique and awesome story! You miss one party, you find another. And usually a place to park.