by Wendy
Follow me on twitter @wendylooksleaps

We felt a little tired when we got to Logrono, Spain. Jack and I were about midway through our 2 week road trip, moving at a fairly fast pace through Madrid, Valladolid, La Seca, Saint Jean de Luz and San Sebastian. It was time to catch our breath and stay in the same place for 3 whole nights – and Logrono was the perfect spot for this.

Logrono is a popular stop along the Camino de Santiago, the famous “Way of St. James” pilgrimage trail across northern Spain and France. Many hikers, or pilgrims, with their walking sticks and full backpacks (adorned with a scallop shell), were also taking some time to rest. Once you start looking, you’ll spot the scallop shell symbols everywhere, indicating routes and info and hostels offering inexpensive bed and breakfast rates for pilgrims. Walking past a gated courtyard, we saw pilgrims sitting at outdoor tables, having a beer, swapping stories, trading their hiking socks and boots for sandals.

The town center was so quiet and sleepy when we first arrived on a Saturday afternoon. We did what we often do when feeling drained – go to a local kabob place for a filling, cheap lunch. We rehydrated and walked around. The old churches appeared to be closed, as did many stores and businesses. A few groups of people out and about. Some restaurants starting to set up for dinner. I wanted to go to Mass that evening, so we went back to our hotel to rest for a bit before the 8pm service in San Bartolome, an impressive stone church from the 12th century.

When Mass was over, the town had transformed. It was hopping. Logrono is the capital of La Rioja, a major wine region in Spain. Wine – and food – is very important here, like so many other great cities in Spain. The streets were packed with families, older folks strolling with canes or relatives to lean on, young adults out on dates. People dining at sidewalk tables, or out buying groceries, or lining the streets to buy pintxos. Toddlers playing in the narrow streets, kids kicking a soccer ball with their parents. Everyone seemed casual, relaxed – this was the Saturday night routine. We loved it.

The next day was the same thing. At first, a laid back Sunday. We grabbed coffee and noticed people doing errands, having a leisurely lunch, walking their dog. A marathon was wrapping up in the early afternoon in one area – while across town a children’s festival was going on. And then, several hours of quiet. We wondered if everything would be as busy as it was on Saturday night. It was! Maybe a bit thinner crowds and people wrapping up earlier, but I would still describe the scene as lively. Even at nearly 10pm on a Sunday night, people of all ages were out and about.

I like the signs of domesticity when you walk past apartment buildings – the laundry hanging off the balcony, the sound of voices and dishes clinking through open windows. But the public spaces – and the restaurants and bars – are just as fascinating, if not more so. Getting out to enjoy the city is a key element. You take some time to properly rest in the afternoon so you can join the party at night.

The ratio of bars to people or bars to any other business seems staggering. Like San Sebastian, the food was amazing in Logrono. During our three nights there, we gleefully chose places at random and soaked in the scenes around us. Unfortunately I did not write down the names of all of them, either because I’m a lazy travel blogger or I try to enjoy the moment – probably both. In my defense it doesn’t really make a difference – just stroll around and when you see an interesting establishment – and you will – go in! Many pintxos (or pinchos) bars have their specialty written on a chalkboard, along with photos. If you’re not tempted by a dozen different options in the span of two blocks, check your pulse!

We ordered razor clams and mini burgers at a trendy spot – and Jack tried to explain to bartender that the sandwiches reminded him of the simple beauty of a classic White Castle. We stopped at Bar Angel, which only served one pintxo but served it well – a mushroom tower on toast with olive oil. We liked “Fax Bar,” decorated with 60s kitsch, with good music and beer selection – and Spanish Sponge Bob playing on tv for a while (bonus!). In another place, we had a drink and slice of potato tortilla while a backdrop of screens constantly projected photos of past Logrono/present Logrono.

One of our favorite bar finds offered a “mini-menu” – three tapas and glass of wine apiece. We had juicy tomatoes with onion, sea salt and olive oil. Second courses were a garbanzo bean stew and scrambled mushroom egg combo, and third was braised beef with fried potatoes and a tomato cod dish. Lots of fresh bread. We bought a bottle of rosado and even had desert – pineapple “ravioli” filled with coconut ice cream. Total bill: 21 euros. Can you beat that?

Our third day in Logrono was a Monday. We were driving to Pamplona the next morning, so we decided to sleep in. We had lunch and did a bit of shopping before businesses started their customary shut down for a few hours. We saw kids in school uniforms walking home with their parents, so we assumed even the schools follow this schedule. And it makes sense: if you work or go to school in the morning, but you stay up til midnight every night meeting friends and family at pintxo bars – you totally need a siesta!

We didn’t quite follow the city’s routine – instead of resting in the afternoon, we went for quiet, scenic walk. We took a path along the Ebro river and visited a park with outdoor exhibits. Then we decided to follow the Camino route away from the city and back again. Beautiful hot but breezy day. You could see the city in the distance, the mountains, the vineyards, olive and fig trees. Pilgrims passed us speaking English, Spanish, French – we were curious about their journey but did not want to interrupt anyone’s pace or personal reflection. Apparently people choose to do this pilgrimage for a variety of reasons – from ones as straightforward as the challenge of a good, hilly hike to reasons deeply personal and spiritual. I would estimate the age of pilgrims ranged from early 20s to perhaps early 70s. Some were solitary while others chatted and laughed in groups. Jack and I walked for a couple of hours. I could see the appeal of following the Camino de Santiago through Spain. Of course, I wasn’t carrying a bunch of gear, the weather was perfect and I certainly hadn’t been roughing it lately. I would guess the pilgrimage is strenous at times, probably physically and emotionally – but also rewarding. I also thought I could imagine the relief some pilgrims must feel when they reach a city like Logrono after disciplined days of hiking. An opporunity to relax and rejuvenate before continuing their trek.

After a quick rest and freshen up we ventured out for our last evening in Logrono. I should mention our hotel – the F&G Logrono was a reasonably priced, simple but extremely comfortable place in what felt like the edge of the busy part of town. We liked it very much.

We walked a few blocks to the Rioja Cultural Center, a modern museum and tourism center with exhibits on the wine making process and the La Rioja region. The highlight was probably the centuries-old wine cave. We also appreciated the complimentary glass of wine with our entry ticket – the perfect segway into another wonderful night spent in the maze of streets. You walk and sit and eat and drink alongside so many people enjoying their city. As you participate in Logrono’s rhythm, you can’t help but feel connected to the community, however briefly. We felt grateful – for the trip, the weather, the hotel, the bars, the friendly people, the food, the opportunity to pass through this special place along with other tourists and pilgrims.