by Wendy

San Sebastian/Donostia is one of Jack and my favorite places. I still can’t believe we almost skipped it. On this third visit, we planned to enjoy activities we had done before: going to the beach, an afternoon at La Perla, steak frites at Gandarias, and snacks and drinks at other spots we liked in the Ondarreta neighborhood near the fabulous NH Aranzazu Hotel. But I also wanted to add a hike. 

You may have noticed the Christ statue in photos I’ve included in previous posts about San Sebastian. Perpetually watching over the city from Monte Urgull, shining like a guardian day and night, my eyes are always drawn to it. On a Saturday morning, we postponed the beach and resolved to follow the path to the top.

We set off from the hotel, walking along the always beautiful paved path along the beach. Nearing old town, we stopped in a free pop up cultural exhibit on Picasso’s Guernica that explained the history of the famous painting and its reception. 

We continued on, admiring boats and fish in the clear turquoise water, before locating the path that began to slowly incline up the mountain. The day was a little hazy, but the views kept getting better and better.

We met an Australian couple during dinner a few nights previously who said the hike was easy and there was lots to see along the way. There was a lot to see along the way. As far as easy, well, they were probably in better shape than us. It was about a 45 minute walk at a moderate pace. The path was marked but at times steep and stair-filled. As we climbed and the air grew warmer I may have asked, “are we close enough?” but Jack urged us on. 

The old fortress walls were very cool, and the various lookout points provided refreshing breaks along the way. 

We noticed a smattering of “tourists go home” graffiti, including one that had been rewritten to say “all tourists go home eventually, that’s the point.”

And we did feel homesick when we spotted a white cat moving through the trees that reminded us of our pet. 

There was a cafe not far from the top. We were tempted, but forged ahead since we had packed a leftover half sandwich, chips and water. We decided we would reach our goal and then relax on a bench and eat lunch. 

When you see the Basque museum, breathe, you’ve almost made it! Entrance was free, and there were several interesting exhibits and films about the history of the city. It’s also the gateway to the statue and panoramic views that are a hiker’s reward. We joined the queue, as they only allow a specific number of folks to wander the platform and take photos at a time, and the line moved fairly quickly.

To finally see the Christ statue up close and gaze at one of our favorite cities from a new vantage point? Definitely worth the hike.