by Wendy
It was the best of dinners and nowhere near the worst of dinners because we were in San Sebastián, Spain.
Years ago, I was talking to a winemaker in La Seca and mentioned that Jack and I would soon travel to San Sebastián for the first time. She got a wistful look in her eyes and declared earnestly, “you will eat very well there.” I attest this is true. Here are two tales from our last visit.
Dinner One: Rekondo was recommended to Jack by a chef friend. Jack booked a reservation via email about a month before our trip. Do we want to sit on the terrace if the weather is nice? Sure, we answered.
On the night of the reservation, our taxi winded up a steep road to the restaurant, a modest building along the side of a hill. The views are stunning. This terrace? Oh my. Even if the food was lousy, the terrace would be worth a visit, with tables sprawled under the protection of a giant leafy tree. But of course the food – and extensive wine list – are as exquisite as the setting.
I was happy to forgo the perfect photo opportunity to sit outside during one of my favorite times of day, twilight, when the glow makes things feel both languid and electric. 
We ordered several dishes to share and each was served already perfectly split for two people. Courses included the following masterpieces: a lobster, avocado, and scallop salad with a light citrus dressing, a dish of delicate steamed clams in a buttery garlic sauce, fresh grilled tuna with juicy red and green peppers, and tender pork garnished with crispy pineapple. Jack had the cheese plate for dessert while I had marscapone ice cream with berries. Sticking with two plates and an inexpensive wine could keep the bill modest, but we had saved in other areas so we could splash out here.
Before we left, we were offered a tour of the incredible wine cellar, with bottles older than America’s Declaration of Independence.
Dinner Two: The following night, we walked around the Ondarreta neighborhood, with no specific plans for the evening.
There was something going on in the square – a street fair with giant grills and people busy cooking over an open flame, a chalkboard menu and folks lining up to order paper plates of food.
We join the queue and buy smoky chorizo and sizzling padron peppers lightly salted and fresh langoustines. With two cold beers, the grand total is about about 25 euros. We have paper napkins and toothpicks instead of knives and forks and above us is a tarp and we will clean up after ourselves and it is just as fun as last night.
As we leave we spot a vendor selling sweets and can’t resist a slice of apple tart and almond cake (the one with the powdered sugar and cross). They’re both good, but the latter is REALLY good – like stand in the middle of the street to polish off every crumb while trying not to get powdered sugar on your shirt. At first we thought those rectangle slices were a bit oversized but only wish we had ordered more. Seriously, we need to find the recipe for that almond cake.
San Sebastián is an elegant city, a sporty city, and you will eat well here. Swim at La Perla, jump in the ocean, walk on the beach, wander through old town, climb the hilly streets, hike up to the Christ statue. Join the diverse crowds enjoying the outdoors – parents pushing baby carriages, couples holding hands, a family of tourists biking, residents in wheelchairs rolling, kids running, those with canes strolling. Then join them relaxing, socializing, winding down the evening with quality food and drinks. Your physical activity will be rewarded with varied, delicious, and sometimes surprising dining experiences.
Two different settings, two delicious dinners, two more tales of evenings spent in San Sebastián.