by Wendy
Welcome to part 2 of my series on one week itineraries (nine days counting both weekends) in Spain. The second trip was made in 2012 and covers: Madrid-Barcelona-Cadaques-Madrid
My husband and I didn’t spend the first night in Madrid this time, but took a short bus ride from the Madrid airport to the Atocha train station, where we hopped on a high speed train to Barcelona.
Note: I’ve found TripAdvisor city forums and travel articles to be a good resource for researching cheap transportation options from airports and how to deal with logistics like buying train tickets. During trip #2, we bought tickets at the train station (as we did in trip #1). Our first choice departure time was unavailable, so we had to hang out at the train station for awhile (mostly drinking cafe con leche to stay alert after a sleepless plane ride). Before trip #3, we managed to buy train tickets in advance on the Renfe site, save some money, secure our preferred train departure time, and avoid some panicky conversations with ticket agents. Don’t get me wrong, we like practicing our Spanish, but sometimes when we’re dealing with timetables, seat assignments and prices things can get a tad confusing (as we break into a cold sweat trying to determine whether we’ve just spent $500 on three seats on two different trains going to two different cities). While many people in Spain speak English, you should not assume everyone you meet does – including ticket agents.
Anyway…we got to Barcelona around mid-afternoon and were pretty worn out. Long international flight followed by a 2 1/2 hour train ride is exhausting, but do-able. We took a nap (some travelers advise against this, but it helps me clear my head a little) and then went on an epic bar/tapas crawl that lasted until the wee hours of the morning. Perhaps that’s why the nap is not recommended – it’s easy to get your second wind, especially in a captivating city!
Barcelona is a gorgeous coastal city with a lot of imagination. I’ve heard it described as San Francisco while Madrid is NYC. That may be true, but to me, Barcelona is Gaudi. This famous architect designed buildings unlike anything I’ve ever seen. I don’t want to over-hype this, but in my opinion, the Sagrada Familia Basilica (Holy Family) is a must-see in life. Even if you aren’t religious, this church is an unparalleled work of imagination and architectural skill.
Just one of the many brilliant angles. Notice the scaffolding – still in progress.
Candy-color details of Parc Guell
The Sagrada Familia started in 1882 and is still a work in progress today. There are few endeavors I can think of that involve this kind of collaboration, spanning multiple generations and talented individuals. It is due for completion in approximately 2026 and I can only imagine the celebration that will take place. The outside of the building is as impressive as the interior. Spring for the audio guide and you will quickly be drawn in to the detail, precision, spiritual intensity, reverence for nature, and visionary use of light and geometry that make this such an inspiring place.
You can see other works by Antoni Gaudi around the city. We spent an afternoon in Parc Guell, designed by Gaudi and the site of one of his residences. This whimsical park has gardens, hilly trails, beautiful views, fantastic sculptures with tiled mosaic patterns.
The Barcelona wharf and beach is pleasant, and we spent some time drinking coffee in the sunshine and looking at the boats. The Catalan Museum near the waterfront is an interesting stop for those wanting a little more background on the region. Modern and professional, it provides a detailed history from the prehistoric first settlements to present day residents. Dioramas with artifacts, pictures and extensive text (in English, Spanish and Catalan) are arranged chronologically to relate the evolution and history of Catalonia. When we went, there was only a big school group there on a field trip, so we practically had the whole museum to ourselves. The receptionist looked surprised that we wanted to buy tickets and not just permission to use their bathrooms (and yes, it’s true that museums do tend to have nice, clean bathrooms).
We rented a car and drove from Barcelona to Cadaques. I’m reluctant to type that it was probably one of the most beautiful spots I’ve ever seen in my life, as this is a spot you want to keep a secret! I haven’t been to the Amalfi coast or Greek isles, so it might remind others of these Mediterranean holiday spots. To us, it was nothing less than spectacular, and yes, one of the most beautiful places I’ve ever seen. Cadaques was the artist Salvador Dali’s stomping grounds. As we walked along the rocky coastline, we noticed markers instructing us to look at the scenery ahead – and then down at a print of a Dali painting inspired by the scenery. We sunbathed on big rocks and waded into the sea. We wandered into town and saw a model being photographed for what looked like an ad for expensive sunglasses or watches. We ate seafood paella with lobster and had drinks along the water. Lights sparkled and a cooling breeze picked up. A lizard crawled around the corner of a building to say buenas noches as we sauntered back to the hotel.
Cadaques, Spain
The next day we strolled through the winding streets as the temperature rose. We wandered into a church – I believe it was the Santa Maria. It was dark inside, and an older man was instructing an electrician on a repair. He walked over to guide me to the center of the aisle and gestured to the back wall, where the bright sun streaming through a beautiful stained glass of the Virgin Mother lit up stars around her head like a corona. Magical, special place.
A word of warning: driving here takes some effort. There are switchback roads and hairpin turns, and you need to be on your A game and use extra caution. I’m no fan of these types of drives (car sick plus fear of plunging over the side of a cliff or into the ocean) – but for me, Cadaques was definitely worth a few minutes of nausea and chewed up nails.
After two blissful days in Cadaques, we drove back to Barcelona, dropped off the car, and caught the train back to Madrid for the rest of the weekend. Which if you read itinerary #1, you know we were quite happy to do! I think some travelers are quick to overlook Madrid for Barcelona, but after having been to both cities, Jack and I really love them both. In fact, I might be slightly partial to Madrid’s style.
Note: Madrid and Barcelona are known as hotspots for pickpockets. Don’t let this scare you off. Be alert, especially in crowded places, and travel light. We saw a few dodgey characters at night on the famous street Las Ramblas and in the Ravel neighborhood in Barcelona, including some creepy dudes who kept asking if we wanted to go to a discotheque. In Madrid, while riding the Metro, I turned at just the right time to see a young man with his coat draped over my purse (it was a cross-body bag, but I also had a wheeled suitcase and a shopping bag of goodies that I was balancing). I stepped away and saw the purse zipper was halfway undone. I instinctively whipped up his jacket to check if he had anything in his hands, and he waved them in front of me with a sly expression. Jerk. I was rattled, but it didn’t ruin our evening. We were en route to our hotel, it was getting late (even by Spain dinner standards), and we were hungry. And we needed a drink after the stupid pickpocket attempt. When we found a Mexican restaurant nearby, we were so grateful – who doesn’t like quesadillas and margaritas? But this was no ordinary Mexican restaurant. To our surprise, a waiter began playing the guitar and singing. It appeared to be someone’s birthday at one of the nearby tables, and everyone clapped and sang along. We received free shots of tequila. Life was muy bueno.
Hotel Info
Hotel Soho- Barcelona – Cool hotel in the trendy Eixample neighborhood. Convenient location. Modern design – except for the old fashioned wooden door keys we had to return to the front desk before every outing. Could be a little too modern for some tastes – shevles instead of closet, and the bathroom shower had a kinda weird glass window with blinds next to the bedroom. Staff was polite and patient, even during a very drunken conversation at 3am about nearby Catholic Churches and Sunday Mass times.
Hotel Rocomar – Cadaques – According to their website, it sounds like this place is being renovated. This could be a good thing, but we really loved its outdated charm when we visited in 2012. So simple and quiet. The rooms were very sparse, older wooden furniture, small bathroom, but when you open a window and hear the gusty winds as you relax on a clean white bed, you wonder what else a room really needs. About 10 minute stroll to restaurants, bars, stores.
Urban Hotel – Madrid – Fancy schmancy hotel! This was the only hotel room with 2 stories that I have ever stayed in. Convenient location. Elegant and comfortable with a smallish rooftop pool, swanky bar. A little pricey, not as much local character (except at the bar). I’d stay here again…if I could find a good deal. There are cheaper places where I’m just as happy.
Stay tuned for the next installment of the Spain in one week series – the third trip was a very special one!