by Wendy
I am interested in the people and cultures of all countries I visit, but will always have a special fondness for the UK. Not only was London the first foreign city I ever visited, but even before I traveled there I gravitated toward many British writers, musicians and films/tv shows. When you think about it, you probably do too. Shakespeare, the Bronte sisters, Virginia Woolf, The Beatles, The Police, Rolling Stones, David Bowie, Sherlock Holmes, Downton Abbey, Doc Martin, Harry Potter, James Bond – this is only a fraction of a long list.
I might be a little obsessive at times. Lucky Jim by Kingsley Amis and White Teeth by Zadie Smith are two of my favorite novels (so different, but both so clever and funny). I was thrilled to take a literature course taught by writer Margaret Drabble (though I skipped out once to watch a Manchester United match in a British expat bar). My friends and I dressed up as The Spice Girls one Halloween. I love old Fawlty Towers episodes and visitors to my house on Friday evenings ring in the weekend with drinks and EastEnders reruns on PBS. My 9 year old nephew likes to listen to Blur with me, and my husband Jack is now a fan of Joy Division, New Order, Pulp and Happy Mondays (though Morrissey remains a hard sell).
Needless to say, I personally think the capital of England should be on every traveler’s list and I love visiting this magnificent city. London can be an especially great destination for anyone in the U.S. who is a little nervous about their first trip overseas. There’s enough familiarity to help ease the transition (namely and importantly, the same language), but also enough difference to make it really interesting and worth the effort.
Here are a few of the many things I love about London. Add yours below! Bonus points for your fave Brit pop bands, books and movies. Consider downloading the song “London Loves” by Blur as you read and write. Or just download the whole brilliant Parklife album. Enjoy, mates!
The iconic sites
Big Ben Clock Tower and the Houses of Parliament in Westminster Palace along the Thames River. You’ve seen this cityscape in tons of movies and photos and I’m telling you, it’s so cool to see it in person. Buckingham Palace and the Guards. The Tower of London. And my favorite, Westminster Abbey. Dating back to 960, this place radiates history as the site of royal weddings and coronations. You can admire the gothic architecture from the outside, or venture in to be overwhelmed by the artifacts and memorials, including those in Poet’s Corner, where you can also visit the graves of writers such as Chaucer, Charles Dickens and Rudyard Kipling.
The museums
Churchill War Rooms- Jack and I visited this historic WWII spot last year and highly recommend it. Touring the bunker and Cabinet War Rooms is intensely fascinating. I think seeing the Map Room – which staff locked and left as-is when they walked out in 1945 – would give chills to even to non-history buffs. We bought the audio guide and slowly made our way through the underground rooms, feeling totally transported as we listened to the stories of war strategy, heroism and brave London citizens. The tour merges with the Churchill Museum, which chronicles the interesting career of this influential man with detailed exhibits, newsreels and memoribilia.
We spent hours underground at these musuems, and probably would have stayed longer had we not had timed tickets to the British Museum. I don’t think you have to reserve tickets in advance normally, unless there is a special temporary exhibit you want to see. We enjoyed browsing through the permenent collection as much as the Viking stuff on loan – be sure to check out the Rosetta Stone!
April and I visited National Gallery and Tate Gallery as well when we were student travelers. Both have wonderful art collections – and are particularly good places to visit on cold, rainy afternoons (which you will likely experience at some point on your trip).
I may be thinking, how does the Duchess of Cambridge keep her hair looking so amazing in the fog, drizzle and windy weather?
The transportation system
I’ve never taken a taxi in London, preferring to walk or take public transportation. The Underground metro (the tube) is fairly easy to navigate, and always seems pretty efficient. It can get crowded, but the people watching is great – commuters on their way to and from work, football fans singing their team’s song at the top of their lungs (and drinking beer on the train), cute schoolkids in their preppy uniforms, stylish women wearing designer heels and jeans with their headscarves. You’ll quickly get the hang of the maps and stations and start to feel like a local too.
The double-decker bus might seem a bit more touristy but they are fun! We took one on a whim and went up to the top deck for views of the city. The Oyster card seems like the way to go if you’re there for a few days – you can preload money and use it for either bus or tube rides.
Jack said this is a bad photo but I think it looks like the Knight Bus in the third Harry Potter movie!
The neighborhoods
Public transportation makes it so easy for visitors to drop in and out of cool neighborhoods around the city. April and I liked the bustle of Oxford Circus, Camden Town, Picadilly Circus, and Leicester Square. For two Kentucky girls who love big cities, this was glorious. We stopped at cheap cafes, window-shopped and were completely charmed by the accents (and when people called us “love” and “dear”).
Jack and I love a good lively pub and checked out a couple both in the eclectic Soho neighborhood and trendy Shoreditch. In Soho, we struck up a conversation with a friendly family from Newcastle while having a beer outside a pub (this is a great feature – you can just stand around outside with your drinks), and watched the street scene unfold (from couples on their way to the theatre, to a parade of Hari Krishna followers with tambourines, to the slightly drunk and the slightly disorderly). Our East End hotel was near Shoreditch, Spitalfields and Brick Lane, and we loved hanging out in this area (see below).
The food – yes, the food!
When I visited London in the late 90s, I heard jokes about the bland food. I didn’t get it (and I’m not just saying that so Gordon Ramsay won’t yell at me). April and I loved the baked goods, omlettes and chips, but especially the vegetarian Indian buffets – inexpensive, filling, and more delicious than back home.
Last year, Jack and I wandered down the famous Brick Lane, which has one curry restaurant after another. We were accosted by a few people promoting their establishment. This can be a little annoying, but the place we settled on, Papadoms, was great. While searching for them online, it looks like they may have changed the name. I realize some reviewers think Brick Lane restaurants are overrated, but we liked the food a lot and had fun chatting with some of the employees afterwards (one fellow had seen an Amish reality tv show and wanted to know if it was true that some communities really live that way in the States).
Not far from Brick Lane is Poppies, a well-known fish and chips place. Awesome and perfect for lunch. Crowded with hipsters and tourists alike. We also had an excellent dinner at Forage & Co Canteen one evening. I had a grilled tofu salad and hake dish, while Jack had a charcuterie appetizer and steak.
Last but definitely not least, I have to mention Polo Bar again. I’m so jealous this place is not in my neighborhood so I could visit it at least once a day week.
Fried fish, chips and beer at Poppies